Island Life

Last April, in the midst of studying for my first year law exams, I went to the bathroom in the Fraser building and discovered my first gray hair. Yesterday I rolled out of my sleeping bag and found that hair sitting beside me. How's that for symbolism?

On Saturday, after a lovely goodbye picnic with my friend Iva at James Bay Market, I rolled out of Victoria on the first leg of my journey. Determined not to miss the one and only daily ferry from Port Sidney to Friday Harbour, I left plenty of time. In the end it only took me 1.5 hours to get to Sidney (the route felt much longer last time but perhaps that was because I was operating on precious little sleep!) This gave me some time to check out the pretty seaside town and grab some groceries.

Goodbye picnic with Iva

Struggling to keep a straight face for a border officer who was clearly trying to get a rise out of me (it's not fair when you can't joke back!) I passed through the U.S. border and onto the ferry to San Juan Island. On the ferry I met a couple from Calgary - but the man was originally from London, Ontario. Small world! (We Londoners seem to get around; my Mom and arrived in Tavira, Portugal last year only to find another guy from our hometown getting off the same bus!)

The ferry did not arrive until 7pm so I hoofed it from the harbour out to the campground I had reserved, squinting to see through the setting sun. The reason for the exhorbitant price of my reservation quickly became aparent as I rolled into the grounds. First of all, any place that uses the word "resort" hardly classifies as a campground. By the time I hit the luxury lodge I knew I needn't be worried about bears or clean water. Shi shi though the grounds were, it was a beautiful spot. The hiker biker sites were nice and secluded at the end of the grounds, and I just happened to luck into the most picturesque spot overlooking one of several lakes. There was also a very friendly older couple from Portland in the site next to me - Jerry and Veronica. Jerry told me that he had ridden the entire Oregon Coast with his son when was only 9 years old! Just when I was starting to feel pretty badass...

Yesterday morning, after a somewhat mucky swim in the lake, I packed up my lunch and gear for the day and headed out to explore the island. My first stop was Roche Harbour, which I think must be an alternate spelling of "rich" given the patrons. Between the historic hotel and villas, gorgeous flower gardens, quaint craft market and swanky marina (anybody wanna buy a yacht?), this was a playplace for the wealthy. Little did they know I was riding most of what I owned.

Passing the pool, tennis court and airport, I came back onto the road and carried on to the English camp, the occupation site of the British army in the 1860s during a territorial dispute with the Americans.  I saw an osprey nest and learned a bit of local history before pushing back up the massive hill that led down to the camp (all the points of interest on this island seem to be at the bottom of steep inclines, as though to test how resolved you really are to see them).  I stopped again down the road at San Juan County Park to eat lunch while watching a kayak lesson unfold in the cove below. 

My next stop was Lime Kiln Point State Park - apparently a great whale watching spot, but no sightings yesterday unfortunately :(  Yet to see a whale on the West Coast! 

I lingered on the rocks at the park before heading on to the American camp at the Southern tip of the island. There I learned some more about the history of the dispute over the island from a very knowledgeable information centre employee. Turns out the whole issue centered around an overly vague treaty clause (blame the lawyers!)  That and a man shooting a pig. Go figure.

History aside, the prairie camp by the coast was beautiful in the late afternoon sun. This was my last stop for the day. Another hour and a half of cycling and I was back in camp.

American Camp

It was a long but very relaxing day of touring. I wanted to make the most of the fact that my camp was already set up for the night and I didn't have to ride with all my gear. Also figured I might as well start training now, as there are many more miles ahead.  I'd like to think they will be slightly less hilly (Victoria doesn't even know the meaning of the word) but really, who am I kidding? The fact that my map of the area shows no topographical changes on San Juan Island but several on Orcas Island is hardly promising. Thank god for granny gears, and Luke at recyclistas who convinced me to go for clipless pedals! 

I spent the evening sharing Jerry and Veronica's fire.  We had a great chat, and they offered to let me stay with them at their campsite on Whidbey Island, where I will soon be heading.  One of the best parts of traveling is meeting so many generous people who are excited to hear about what you're doing and want to help you along the way. 

Time to catch my next ferry!  Ciao for now,



Dana