Brews, Birds and Bikes: The 48 Hour Portland Express

 Portland is a city with a reputation. A place where bicycle commuters are thoughtfully accommodated rather than run down for points. Where being out of style makes you all the more trendy (this usually involves ugly vintage clothing).  Where people think progressively (lots of lesbians). A place where the young go to retire...or to work on that album.This is how the hipster diaspora imagines its homeland (for Portland is the birthplace of the hipster).  When I told a girl from Olympia that I'd heard good things about her city, she smiled in delight and divulged that she liked to think of it as a little piece of Portland.

My Portland hosts - Erik and Sara

Needless to say, Portland had a lot to live up to as I arrived on the greyhound bus from Astoria to spend the weekend. I was not disappointed. This was due, in large part, to my amazing hosts - Erik and his fiance Sara - who not only opened their home to me but also their city.

Saturday alone was epic. Erik and I had barely stepped out the door before we were asked to be extras in "Portlandia" - a local TV show making fun of all things Portland - which just happened to be filming around the corner. I must confess I was initially drawn in by the offer, but Erik knew better. Once we found out that we'd basically just be standing in line for an hour, the glamour of the role quickly dissipated.  Besides, why wait around when Star Trek in the Park was taking place just across the street.

Star Trek in the park!

We joined the large audience, and I soon saw what all the fuss was about. It was Trek with all its trappings: Captain Kirk, Spock, the bridge, the tasers, those tight leotard suits. The production even had live intergalactic sound effects.  Screw Shakespeare, this was outdoor entertainment!  My Mom (a longstanding trekkie) would have loved it.


Unfortunately we could not stay to find out if Kirk and the crew ever escaped from the parallel universe in which they were entrapped; we had plans to drive out to Sandee River with friends to get some relief from the heat, which still had not abated.

Sasha, Erik, Sara, Ramman and I at the river

The river was refreshing, and everyone seemed to appreciate the break from busy city life. After lunching on some delicious (and massive!) burritos from a favourite local Mexican place, I went off to do some solo exploring along Alberta street. As I walked this strip of trendy hippy (as opposed to trendy yuppie) restaurants, shops and food carts, I felt for the first time since I'd started my trip that my capacity for eating was not great enough. Within five minutes, I had picked out at least 3 places that I absolutely had to try before leaving - including a baked macaroni and cheese joint and an ice cream shop serving flavours such as "pear and gorgonzola," "almond brittle with salty ganache," and "brown ale and bacon." (Umm...I think I can actually recite the entire menu...)

Portlanders like to get creative with their vehicles...

The dazzling array of comestibles was matched by an equally impressing selection of microbrewed beer. Standing in front of the IPA section (yes, that's right, section) in one store, I was at a loss. Luckily each variety came with a poetic narrative describing the origin of the brew along with its many subtle flavours. I could have easily been lost forever in this mecca of delicious, but Erik had other adventures in store, and I knew I needed to get home.

The swifts circling the school chimney

A little before dusk, Erik, his friend Sasha, and I set out towards downtown on our bikes. Our initial destination was a school with a large chimney that served as a roosting spot for thousands of swifts each September. The birds arrived at dusk, swirling en masse around the chimney until they were gradually drawn inwards for the night. It was quite a sight to see. Perhaps more impressive were the flocks of people. Couples cuddled on blankets, teenagers snapped photos on their phones, Moms and Dads opened snacks from little plastic baggies, and kids slid down the grassy slope on giant pieces of cardboard, running, laughing and crying all the way (guess that's what you do when you don't get snow).  We sipped cold beers while looking through Sasha's binoculars for signs of the hawk that sometimes hits the chimney for an easy meal.

Right before we almost hit the toddler

The audience oohed and aahed as the swifts changed flight patterns, their numbers shrinking and swelling incomprehensibly.  Finally, they all filtered into the chimney like a great bird vortex, to the clapping and cheering of the crowd.  Erik was disappointed that the hawk didn't make an appearance, so we did a few runs down the hill on a borrowed piece of cardboard to cheer him up. I laughed and then screamed as we nearly ran over a small toddler walking up the hill. But the fun had only begun...

Alas, my internet time is nearly gone. I will have to save the rest of the Portland extravaganza (and pictures!) for a sequel post!  Until then,

Dana